In the Basque Country, on the French side of the Pyrenees, there is a wine called Madiran. It is made from a grape called Tannat — dark, tannic, severe, a wine that requires years in the cellar before it will show you what it really is. In France, Tannat is a regional curiosity. In Uruguay, it became a national identity.

Basque immigrants brought the vine to Uruguay in the 1870s. They planted it in the heavy clay soils of the south, around Canelones and Montevideo, and discovered that the Uruguayan climate — humid, warm, with Atlantic influence — did something unexpected to the grape. It softened. The ferocious tannins became silkier. The fruit opened up. What had been a difficult wine in France became, in Uruguay, something genuinely seductive.

Today, Tannat is Uruguay's signature grape in the way that Malbec is Argentina's or Carménère is Chile's. The best examples — from producers like Bouza, Garzón and Pizzorno — are among the most interesting red wines in the southern hemisphere: deep, complex, with a structure that rewards patience and food. A Tannat from Uruguay beside a Uruguayan grass-fed steak is one of the great matches in world gastronomy.