
01 Water that rises at 46 °C
Daymán, Arapey and Salto Grande: three hot springs fed by the Guaraní Aquifer, warm all year, and a public pool that still costs a few dollars at the gate.
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Warm water, a river for sunsets, and no crowds.
Uruguay’s second city, on the Uruguay River, 500 km north of Montevideo and a short boat ride from Argentina.

Daymán, Arapey and Salto Grande: three hot springs fed by the Guaraní Aquifer, warm all year, and a public pool that still costs a few dollars at the gate.
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The dorado is the fish that jumps, and the Uruguay River at Salto is where it is fished all year round: a whole boat for up to 3 anglers, a full day or half a day, and every fish goes back in the water.
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Estancias an hour from town, an hour on horseback for US$15, and the orchards that give Salto its oranges and its olive oil.
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Once a year, more than 20 Uruguayan wineries pour their best in Salto, and every ticket pays for a young person from the countryside to study. The 19th edition sold out.
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Brick vaults by Eladio Dieste, the house where Horacio Quiroga was born, and the tango city that claims Gardel. Five walking tours, on request.
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A scenic flight over Daymán and the river with the Centro de Aviación Salto, the city's flying club, US$75 for the whole aircraft, up to 3 people, with the wetland birds below.
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Estancia La Aurora, 13 km from the city: two nights in 1976 and 1977, a dog and a bull dead, a cross burnt into the pasture, and the question that never closed: whether Neil Armstrong was ever here. The estancia is private; the Padre Pío grotto on its edge is open day and night.
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Since 1756 on the banks of the Uruguay River. Hot springs, orange groves, tango and asado.

The sun goes down over the far bank, in Argentina. Where to stand, what time to be there, and why the best seat is a free one.
Booked with me, run by the people who know them best. You pay on the day, in pesos.
Every item priced. Nothing paid in advance.



Prices in US dollars per person; locally you pay in pesos.
Your dates and what you like are enough. No agency, no deposit.